Nafplion and the Coast

Friday, May 3

Because we planned a low-key day walking around Nafplion and nearby, we took our time getting out this morning and arrived at the Palamidi Castle about 10:00.  (We happily drove up the winding road to the hilltop, though we could have chosen almost 900 rocky steps from the Old Town instead; we may not be strong, but we’re not stupid, either!)  

The Palamidi is the largest of the town’s three fortifications, and the highest, spreading  over an outcrop of rock more than 700 feet above the sea. The fortress consists of a series of massive bastions constructed by the Venetians in the early 18^th century.  In addition to its many defensive features, it also contained a turn-of-the-20^th-century prison and a couple of chapels.  The complex is huge, with lots of stairs and ramps among its many levels, as well as rocky terrain for us to scramble up and over.  The views of Nafplion, other nearby towns, the countryside, the sea, the Akronafplia (Nafplion’s oldest fortification, above the Old Town) and the small island fortress of Bourtzi in the bay were fantastic.  Though the attendant at the ticket booth said that he was suffering greatly due to allergies to the spring olive and other blossoms, we were once more enthralled by the gorgeous flowers growing wild on the grounds, embellishing the stone fortifications and the rocky hillside below us.  They are every bit as memorable as the fortress and the larger views.

Winding our way down the mountain and into town, we parked in a large lot alongside the port.  The annual Mediterranean Yacht Show is in town and the harbor is full of opulent yachts available for charter.  Had we only known…

Stopped in the tourist information office in the town hall and then just wandered around the Old Town, roughly following a self-guided walking tour.  The narrow streets in the area are largely pedestrianized, lined with shops catering to tourists and well-heeled visitors (reminiscent of Taormina, Sicily), and overhung with lanterns and bougainvillea vines.  There are several squares and portside streets lined with tavernas and cafes, as well as a number of Greek Orthodox churches within the Old Town.  We ate our picnic lunch on a bench on a waterside promenade with a view of the small island fortress.  

As we walked along the promenade, we encountered the only two people we’ve met in Greece – Dimitris and Adonia, the owners of our rental house.  What are the chances?!?  Their home is right behind ours, and they invited us to join them for a barbeque this evening.

After our walk in town, we decided to drive out to Tolo and some other villages along the coast.  The afternoon was warm and lovely and the waters were a crystal clear aquamarine near shore and navy blue farther out.  We enjoyed sitting, strolling, and riding through areas that are pretty quiet now (though not devoid of sunbathers), but will soon be full of weekenders from Athens and vacationers, judging by the number of hotels, vacation rentals, and resorts along the way.

This evening, we joined Dimitris and Adonia, their three daughters, and assorted friends for an amazing bounty of Greek food and hospitality.  Dimitris grilled souvlaki, kebabs and what must have been a whole lamb – it just kept coming; I’m pretty sure my entire allotment of meat for the month of May has just been consumed!   Salad, fries, the best homemade tzatziki ever, plenty of beer and wine, and – just when we thought we’d burst – a sweet chocolate dessert all made for a great meal – and plenty of guilt.  Dimitris has been in the Greek army for 28 years and speaks very little English, while Adonia loves to use her language skills.  The girls and their boyfriends speak English, but a good deal of the conversation among the adults required Adonia’s skill as a translator.  I’d practiced saying, “Cheers!” And “Thank you.” before our gathering, but that was the extent of our bilingualism.  Regardless, we had a wonderful meal and a memorable night – one that made a hash of our plans to get to bed early so we could get an early start in the morning.  Sweet sacrifice, indeed!